Exploring My Rich New Orleans Roots: A Family Heritage Journey and Travel Guide

New Orleans

29.9511° N, 90.0715° W

Quarantine. Shelter-In-Place. Lockdown……. terms and phrases that sounded so foreign just five weeks ago. Three weeks ago, those terms left a sour taste in our mouths —- they were keeping our family from a Spring Break adventure together. And now, those words bear sadness and a certain call for responsibility. Many have lost lives or witnessed the suffering of loved ones. So, while we pray for health and the safety of family, friends, neighbors, the nation, the world…… we reflect on how incredibly fortunate we have been to travel the world freely + we dream about revisiting some of our favorite destinations and the opportunity to create new memories in some new locations.

I’ve been following the impact of Covid-19 on New Orleans — sadly, many have been lost to the virus and amongst them a list of jazz legends. New Orleans has a special place in my heart. When I look at the paternal side of my family tree, I see eleven generations that called New Orleans (and St. Martinsville) home. My Grandfather moved his young family to California just as my Dad was ready to begin Elementary school. I loved hearing his rich stories of growing up in this special place — combing through his stacks of photo albums. And, I loved listening to the music dance in the background as my Grandmother stewed a fragrant pot of Gumbo on the stove….. the mesmerizing scents of filé, andouille sausage, shrimp and crab marrying to make my mouth water. So, when Kevin said we were going to New Orleans to celebrate my 50th birthday —- well, I was elated!

I find New Orleans to be intoxicating. It gets under your skin like you’re absorbing it — sights, sounds, smells, textures. One of my favorite things to do is just walk the neighborhoods looking at all of the colorful shuttered homes with their porches. The textures are wonderful with the spirals of interwoven wrought iron against the brightly painted shutters….. head uptown to the Garden District and you’ll find them as the backdrop to landscaped yards —- don’t be surprised if you find strands of beads in trees as a gentle reminder of Mardi Gras days or some other festival.

For some, a trip to New Orleans is not complete without stopping by Bourbon Street — Kevin and I prefer to walk down Royal Street instead. On Royal Street you’ll find an eclectic mix of galleries with works by local artists, shops with unique touches for your home, clothing boutiques and gift shops to pick up something special to mark your visit. We’re always sure to stop off at The Historic New Orleans Collection - Merieult House (533 Royal Street). They have an assortment of items you can pick up as souvenirs but, I am always drawn to the Black + White photos by Michael P. Smith. I love the way he was able to capture the spirit and energy of New Orleans culture in his photographs.

As with all of New Orleans, music is the backdrop to a promenade down Royal Street. You’ll find an eclectic mix of entertainment — renowned musicians on one corner, new artists on the next, poets, acrobat contortionists. We always walk to the corner of Royal and St. Peter streets in hopes that we’ll find clarinetist Doreen Ketchens and vocalist Percy Harrison — two very talented musicians.

The talented Doreen Ketchens on clarinet.

A pleasant walk from Royal Street, and you’ll find yourself at Jackson Square. After a morning of walking, it’s a good area to look for a bite to eat. There’s an assortment of dine in restaurants or try the French Market (America’s oldest public market) where you’ll find anything from a seafood + oyster bar to a wine + cheese bistro…. and if you’re really adventurous, keep your eyes open for fried alligator on the menu! Just on the corner of the market you’ll find where many tourists flock to for the local beignet delicacy —- Cafe du Monde. After you’ve filled your stomachs, you may want to hang back and peruse some of the touristy trinkets in the market (masks, cheap sunglasses, magnets, etc) or saunter across the street where you’ll find horse drawn carriages and artwork by local artists.

Standing regally watching over it all is St. Louis Cathedral — an easily recognized landmark with its triple steeples. The church is open daily from 8:30am to 4:00pm with daily Mass at 12:05….. and a group of trombonists to serenade you as you admire the facade.

Close by, in the Bywater, you’ll find a gem - Studio Be - artist Brandon “BMike” has created a space with moving pieces that speak to social justice, Black History and its impact on New Orleans residents (especially in the wake of Katrina). It should not be missed.

Headed back towards our stay at the Pontchartrain Hotel, we like to stop off at the Ogden Museum — located in the Warehouse Arts District, this museum boasts the largest collection of southern art. One of my favorite pieces is by painter Simon Gunning, entitled Miss Ashleigh. The Ogden Museum also is a great spot for views of the riverfront.

While in New Orleans, be sure to take one of the Historical Streetcars. They are a sweet way to see the city and offer a great vantage point. We always enjoy taking the St. Charles line — this slow ride will take you past canopies of Live Oaks and fragrant Magnolia trees, beautifully manicured mansions, Loyola University and Audubon park. The entire ride down St. Charles takes about 40 minutes. We like to ride in one direction and then stroll back at our own pace (hand in hand of course)! You can either purchase a ticket good for one day on the streetcar or on the mobile app. A one day ticket will set you back $3.

St. Charles Historic Streetcar. One of New Orleans four streetcar lines —- a fun and affordable way to see the city.

If you’d like to see more of this area on foot, we also like to walk from Audubon Park to the Magazine Street neighborhood. It gives you more of an opportunity to see the city and you’ll find a number of boutique shops and restaurants on this side of town. You’ll also find a Whole Foods Market here — pop in and get yourself a fresh bottle of water or snack for the walk back!

The St. Charles streetcar also has a stop conveniently located right in front of our favorite accommodations, The Pontchartrain Hotel . We can’t say enough about this property. Exceptional service (they brought me a rose for my birthday everyday we were there and even serenaded me with a birthday song), they are in a fantastic location (Uptown - Garden District) where we didn’t have to worry about it getting to noisy, the decor is superb. Be sure to visit the bar on the top floor for an exceptional view of the city! And, for breakfast, visit the Silver Whistle Café downstairs —- Kevin says do not pass up on the homemade honey biscuits! They also have a restaurant that I’ve been wanting to try, Jack Rose….. on my list for next time!

The Pontchartrain is also close to the beautiful Audubon Zoo/Aquarium and Park —- pack a picnic lunch for a romantic afternoon or lace up your sneakers and take the pleasant loop around (just shy of 2 miles). Check their calendar of events, as they often have outdoor music here as well. For those entertaining college visits, you’ll find Tulane and Loyola Universities both on this street as well.

A New Orleans getaway would not be complete without visiting family and a little jazz in the evening! We got to spend some special time with my Great Aunt Neomie and then closed out the evening with the sweet sounds of the late Ellis Marsalis at the Snug Harbor Jazz Bistro. You’ll find Snug Harbor just outside the French Quarter, in the Marigny — in addition to live music, they also have a bar and dining room. You can purchase tickets online or at the door.

A quiet visit with Aunt Neomie.

We certainly are looking forward to visiting New Orleans again and creating new memories….. We hope you have it on your list of must sees as well! In the meantime, here’s a brief clip from our last visit to Snug — Ellis Marsalis on piano.

Happy Travels!